User:JoeBrock997
Acrylic or polycarbonate dome skylights come is several sizes today. The traditional ones, however, are square to rectangular in shape, and run about 5" in height. Their width and length might be between 12" to 36", and therefore are 1/8" thick. These domes could be mounted onto wooden curbs (2x2" to 2x6"), around that this roof shingles are caulked or thin-metal flashed to avoid any rain leakage around them. These domes may also be surface mounted directly onto the tar paper and wooden sheeting directly beneath the shingles. In the latter case, the dome's surrounding shingles themselves are directly laid over its flat outside flanges similar on the way the shingles can be laid within the flat metal of roof vents, furnace stacks, sewer vents and so forth. This installation minimizes the dome's height. Problem. Either way, or no matter how the domes are mounted, they can and definately will produce unwanted condensation and similar leaks regardless of whether they come with an inner plastic shield within them. These domes will also be vulnerable to being cracked from large hail, fallen tree branches, earthquakes, or careless roofers. When these events happen, the skylights will leak rain water as well in addition to forming moisture. Solution. Build and use a shallow-box-like 5-1/2"-high hard transparent cover on the dome about the roof. This cover will act being a storm window does by utilizing the brunt of temperature change and also the formation of most condensation. For this article, a 20" square dome (which carries a 1" flange on each side from the 18"-square dome itself), 5" high, and surface mounted directly towards the roof sheeting will likely be used as the example to become covered with the box-like storm cover. Similar covers may be built proportionally for other dome sizes. Materials and tools (total cost for parts: $50-90, depending around the availability of the acrylic sheet). One 2x6x96" pressure-treated board ($5) One 22x22" sheet of heavy 0.22" thick acrylic plexiglass ($25-60, depending around the cut sizes available with the outlet). In the big event the piece must be cut from the larger sheet, leave the protective films unpeeled on both sides from the sheet before sawing is done. Use a clear fine-tooth saw blade. Otherwise, let the outlet cut it to size for you. Twelve #12x3" Philips screws 20 to 30 - #8x1" Philips drywall screws (wide head) One small tube clear silicone caulk ($4) Two tubes silicone window/door caulk similar in color for the roof shingles ($8) Four perpendicularly flat 2-1/2" L-shaped brackets ($5) Eight #10x1" wood screws (for attaching the L-brackets for the cover frame) Eight #10x1-1/2 to 2" wood screws (for attaching the frame's L-brackets towards the roof through the shingles) One quart oil-base water-proof paint similar in color for the roof shingles ($4) Tools: electric circular saw, electric drill, bits, Philips screwdriver, caulking gun, putty knife, rat-tail file, paintbrush Cover construction. 1. Cut the 2x6" board into four square-cornered pieces: 2 22"-long ones and 2 19"-long ones. 2. Assemble the 22" square box-like frame by sealing/securing the four corners while using silicone window/door water-proofing caulk and 3" screws. 3. On what will probably be the lower-end with the bottom side, use the file to produce no less than three half-moon groves for moisture drainage. 4. Paint both inside and outside of the wooden frame. Let dry. 5. Place the acrylic plexiglass flush in the frame. 6. Mark about the plexiglass the location where the screw holes will go, about 5" apart round the top in the frame. 7. At each mark, drill an opening from the plexiglass (only) wider compared to the drywall screw. 8. Then, by employing a narrow bit, drill holes 1/2" deep in to the wood frame dead-center through the plexiglass holes. 9. Remove the plexiglass in the frame, noting how it fits onto the frame. 10. Brush away any plastic or wood shavings from your frame and plexiglass. 11. With the silicone caulk, put in a narrow bead lengthwise on either side of the frame's drill holes around it. 12. Carefully replace the plexiglass atop the frame, aligning it for the original drill holes accordingly. 13. Install the screws to medium tightness, so to not crack the plexiglass. The caulk will flatten and spread between the plexiglass and also the frame, sealing it. 14. Add a minimum of one flat L-shaped bracket to both sides with the frame flush to its bottom side with all the 1" wood screws. 15. Paint the brackets. Cover installation (the easy way). 1. While using safety precautions, carry the completed cover up for the roof, assuming the cover can be a low-pitch and safe to walk on. 2. Center it over the dome skylight, square to square. 3. Attach the dome to the roof from the shingles with the 1-1/2 to 2" wood screws, depending about the thickness with the shingles. 4. Seal the bottom side of the upper end and each party with the cover using the silicone window/door caulk. Seal the brackets and screws a similar way. Leave the underside side in the lower end unsealed for drainage. It is often a storm window. 5. If necessary, touch-up the frame and brackets with paint. By installing the coverage atop the shingles, the wood sheeting beneath the shingles is also shielded from any moisture damage. This placement also elevates the duvet on the dome for adequate air space. This cover will assume the formation of almost every among the condensation that could otherwise occur inside dome, none of which will make it over the dome in to the house nor under the shingles. It's going to also protect the dome from hail, fallen tree branches, and other damages. To learn much more about skylight types in addition to their maintenance, see these sites.
